Friday, May 11, 2001

A Little Piece of Heaven Closes Its Doors, Moves Inland


When a favorite restaurant closes its doors it often has the same effect as losing a best friend. No one knew your needs better. No one was as comforting to be around. Change is a part of life, but this one never seems to leave you, no matter how hard you try.

A favorite such Orange County haunt recently closed its doors after 14 years of service on the Balboa Peninsula and needless to say I'm having a little trouble getting over it.

Britta's Cafe, a small, neatly nestled little piece of heaven a stone's throw off Balboa Avenue, was my lone reason for getting out of bed on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I'd snatch up the paper, toss on whatever garment was most readily available and dash out the door praying the line hadn't yet reached the Balboa Pier.

I ordered the same breakfast for 10 years - scrambled eggs, two succulent sausage links, thick rye toast and the most extraordinary fried potatoes ever created. If I was ever granted a last meal, those potatoes would be my only request.

Everyone always had a smile at Britta's. You walked in and knew instantly the day was going to be a good one. Service never lagged. And if the rare wait for a table was required, you always got a big mug of piping-hot coffee to nurse outside in the fresh sea air.

The story of Britta's Cafe is almost as good as its food. Raised in Orange County, Britta Pullium was a mere 16 years old when she started socking away pennies in hopes of one day owning her own restaurant. By 21 she was general manager of a neighborhood cafe and by 25 she had purchased an ice cream/pizza parlor on Balboa's popular Main Street enclave. No partners. No managing director. There was one name on the sign and one name pulling the strings.

In the 14 years since, Britta's Cafe had become a cherished part of the surrounding communities. Britta became almost a pseudo-Oprah - her own book club, newsletter and special weekly dinners featuring three generations of family recipes that attracted as much attention as if they were staples on the Food Network.

So why the closure? Well it isn't so much a closure as a relocation. As Britta puts it, " Balboa was a proving ground. I'm older, wiser and ready for a new challenge."

In September a brand new Britta's Cafe, same menu, same Britta, will re-open its doors in Irvine at the University Center across from UCI. It's all part of a new investment by the Irvine Company to revitalize the sluggish but optimally located 17-year-old shopping center. First Trader Joe's and now Britta.

The new venue will include a full bar, wood-burning oven and much to Britta's fancy, a larger kitchen.

And what about the old location on Balboa? Well it's now owned by a local couple and goes by the name Bibbi Anna's. Britta thinks they'll make a tremendous addition to the neighborhood.

Britta's immediate plans call for an enjoyable summer with 10-year-old daughter Raquel. As for me, I'm rolled up in the fetal position anxiously awaiting those fried potatoes.

Look for Britta's Cafe this September at 4237 Campus Drive in Irvine.